Recipe: Raw Bluefin Tuna with Yuzu (David Kinch)

(from me) Although I haven’t made this crudo recipe, I intend to.Everything David cooks is wonderful. All the Asian ingredients are available at Nak’s in Menlo Park, an excellent source for sushi fish as well. Cook’s Seafood in Menlo Park also has super-fresh tuna. To get the unique flavor of yuzu, one suggestion is to buy bottled yuzu at Nak’s and mix a little in with the fresh Meyer lemon.

(Serves six)
500g centre-cut bluefin tuna (preferably with a piece of the belly flap intact)
1 tsp black sesame seeds, toasted
Sea salt, to taste
2 tbs shiro dashi (white soy that has been fermented with dashi)
½ tsp grapeseed oil
2 tbs chives, finely sliced
1 shiso leaf, finely chopped at the last minute
1 yuzu or Japanese citron (we substitute Meyer lemon in California)

For garnish
6 shiso leaves (perilla)
Maldon salt or a granular Japanese sea salt

the tuna on a very clean surface. Place a non-reactive metal bowl on ice at the ready. With a sharp knife, remove the tuna skin. Using a teaspoon, gently scrape the tuna flesh off the skin and remove the sinew. This takes patience and a gentle hand. You do not want any sinew or foreign matter in the tuna. You do not want to bruise the flesh, but you do want to maintain the fat in the flesh as you work. Place the flesh in the iced bowl as you work. Some parts of the tuna will be fattier than others. If you work carefully you will have a purée of the tuna with a beautiful texture. Carefully fold it together so it is homogenous.

Season the tuna at the last moment with the sesame seeds, salt, shiro dashi, grapeseed oil and chives, by folding everything in with a spoon. Add the chopped shiso to taste. Add some fresh yuzu juice and just-grated peel to taste. It is important that you get just a hint of the yuzu in the tartare and not a dominating flavour.

Shape the tuna into quenelles (soup-spoon-sized dumplings) with two spoons and place on a shiso leaf. Garnish with Maldon salt or equivalent and serve immediately.


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