Recipe: Salmon Starter 3 Ways

Salmon lovers, this made-up recipe is a great warm-season starter or main course. And it’s light, too!

This is a beautiful, very delicious and light starter or it can be a whole meal. It’s a wonderful way to sample salmon in three guises. The jalapeño emulsion was inspired by a crudo recipe from Le Bernardin but I changed it a bit. The freshest salmon is needed for this, so look for a sushi-quality fish monger. I rely on Cook’s Seafood in Menlo Park. I use home-smoked pink rainbow trout that’s stovetop-smoked over dried herb stems for the smoked salmon, which I get from Ocean2Table. Bi-Rite markets in San Francisco also carry this wonderful trout. Mostly, quantities aren’t listed because this is up to the cook.

The details below don’t have a serving quantity but this should work for 4-8 people as a starter. The third guise of salmon is not pictured above but consists of salmon tartare on a cracker. A couple of these can be added to a bigger plate than what’s pictured or passed separately.

Salmon Starter 3 Ways

Ingredients:

around 1½ lbs. king salmon filet, as fresh as possible, deboned and skinned

salmon tartare (this uses 1 lb. of the salmon), recipe below

crackers for the tartare (best is Mary’s Gone Crackers super seed everything)

good-quality smoked salmon (or home smoke salmon or pink trout), about ½ lb.

jalapeño emulsion, recipe below

different kinds of radish, particularly watermelon radish and black radish

fennel bulb

minced chives

micro sprouts like radish sprouts

Technique:

• Thinly slice the radishes and put into cold water to cover. Use a mandoline and cut thin slices of the fennel. Cut into bite-sized pieces. Toss with a little jalapeño emulsion and refrigerate.
• Cut the half pound of skinned salmon into small square pieces. Right before plating, toss with some diced shallot, lemon EVOO and a little lemon balsamic (or lemon juice) plus salt and pepper. Just enough to lightly dress. Make sure the smoked fish is boned and skinned. Cut into similar-sized pieces and refrigerate.
• Long white plates are attractive for this dish. Spread a little of the fennel on the bottom of each plate as a base. Don’t use too much. Alternate a slice of raw fish with a slice of smoked fish.
• Decorate the plate with slices of radish and a little micro-sprouts on top. Drizzle jalapeño emulsion across everything; don’t use too much. Finish with some snipped chives. Add a couple of crackers with tartare to the end of each plate or pass separately.

THE JALAPEÑO EMULSION
1/2 cup minced jalapeños, seeds and ribs removed (use plastic gloves)
2 teaspoon minced shallot
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
Fine sea salt and freshly ground white pepper

(optional) a little sugar to balance flavors

• For the emulsion, combine the peppers, shallot, olive oil, cilantro and lemon juice in a blender and process until smooth and emulsified. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Transfer to a container and refrigerate until ready to use.

Salmon Tartare

1 pound salmon fillet, with skin, bones and purple-colored area next to skin removed

1 bunch fresh parsley

2 anchovy fillets

4 tablespoons minced shallots

3 tablespoons capers, drained

2 tablespoons prepared horseradish (can be the creamy kind)

2 tablespoons grainy prepared mustard (French is best)

Freshly squeezed lemon juice to taste (at least 2 tablespoons)

Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:

Chop the salmon reasonably fine by hand. Chop the parsley, anchovies, and shallots fine. Add the whole capers, horseradish, and mustard, and stir well. Mix with the salmon, and (right before serving) add lemon juice, and salt and pepper. Serve with toast points or with crackers as an hors d’oeuvre.

* Put tartare on Mary’s crackers and serve on side of plate

Quick Thai Lettuce Wraps

Lettuce wraps are like veggie-heavy tacos and can be made with a wide assortment of ingredients.

These tasty, light snacks or full meals feature a bunch of veggies and the protein of your choice. The “sauce” is an oil-free Thai concoction I made up to go with raw fish, which the sauce does very well. Keep it in the freezer and thaw as needed.

Ingredients

1 lb. ground turkey, chicken, pork or beef (I use turkey)

1 sweet onion (or regular onion), chopped

2-3 red and/or yellow bell peppers, chopped

2 jalapeños, seeded and diced

4 cloves garlic, diced or sliced thin

olive oil or other oil for cooking

Nuoc Cham (see below)

salt & pepper to taste

shredded carrots (buy from salad bar at Whole Foods, Draeger’s, etc.)

4-5 scallions, thinly sliced

cilantro, stemmed (or Thai basil)

a few heads of butter lettuce, leaves removed, washed and blotted dry

chopped roasted peanuts

(optional) thinly sliced hot red peppers for garnish

Instructions

Heat a generous amount of oil in a large skillet. Add diced onion and cook for 5 minutes, then add all peppers and cook until all ingredients are softened. Now add in ground meat, breaking chunks apart and cooking until pink is removed. Toss in garlic and cook briefly.

Pour in several ladles of Nuoc Cham. Blend with meat and veggies, then push them to edges of pan in a pile and allow liquid in the center to reduce a bit so it’s not soupy. Let cool and add salt & pepper to taste.

 To serve:

Put a couple of tablespoons of above mixture on a lettuce leaf. Sprinkle on shredded carrots, scallions, chopped cilantro and peanuts. Dress with a tablespoon or so of Nuoc Cham.  Add hot pepper slices if desired. There’s a skill to eating these out of hand (just like tacos) so they can be served on a plate if desired.

Nuoc Cham Sauce

This is my Frenchified version of a basic, much-used Vietnamese dipping sauce.  It is incredibly versatile and tasty.

Ingredients:

2 T brown sugar

4 T water

2 T Vietnamese fish sauce (Nuoc Nam) – use the Viet Huong Three Crabs brand, available at Oriental groceries, or (the best) Megachef Premium Thai Fish Sauce (Amazon)

2T white vinegar

2-3 T fresh lime juice

2 T chopped shallot

1 T peeled, chopped ginger

Put all ingredients together in food processor and blend until big chunks are not visible. Can be refrigerated for quite a while or frozen and thawed.

Improving Julia’s Most Popular Soup

The Julia Child oeuvre has already been well covered, most notable in the Julie Powell blog/book, “Julie & Julia,” (and charming film version starring Meryl Streep in serious platform shoes to make her 6’2″) so this post isn’t one of those. Rather, it’s a comment as well as encouragement for home cooks to not be afraid of changing recipes, even famous ones.  Maybe the famous ones should be changed, actually!

Help Out Farmers Suffering from the Pandemic — and Help Yourself

While one of the thrills for foodies going to the top-echelon Bay Area restaurants was getting to experience such remarkable ingredients — nothing like what consumers normally can access — there’s one small sliver of good news in the midst of such carnage for serious home cooks. Or just everyday cooks who want to help out farmers in need. Many high-end restaurant suppliers, faced with losing most of their business, have created a new sales channel via the internet, offering their goods directly to consumers, which has made some truly amazing ingredients at retail for the first time.  It’s a tragedy for these farmers but at least we eager consumers can help them a little by buying from them.

Three Great Asparagus Recipes

Asparagus has become so popular in recent years that it seems to be available in markets for many months past its spring season. Its fresh, “green” taste is terrific with all sorts of accompaniments or just roast or grill it all by itself. I definitely prefer thick stalks (they’re from a more mature plant) than the cheaper skinny ones and these larger ‘gus spears are also more tender and have more soluble fiber and vitamins than the thin ones.

Where to Belly Up to the Bar in Silicon Valley

Grabbing a glass after work is a popular way to unwind in Silicon Valley, where residents and visitors are seeking out the best places to imbibe their favorite craft beer, wine or distilled spirits.

(To be published by Discover Magazine.)

The “play hard” side of the phrase that goes with the “work hard” ethic driving Silicon Valley can be seen in action in the dizzying array of bars in the region serving one’s alcoholic beverage of choice. But just any old neighborhood watering hole won’t do. The most popular outposts are those dedicated to the consumption of a specific beverage that have a focus on quality, since Valley residents tend to be connoisseurs of their favorite booze. From swanky wine bars to tap rooms connected to thriving craft breweries and tasting programs within high-end local distilleries, locals are seeking out the best spots to consume the wine, beer or spirits they like while kicking back with those of like mind.

Mountain View Baker Using Freshly Milled Grain

Organic flour milled on site sets The Midwife and the Baker apart from most of its peers. But it’s the outrageously craveable breads and pastries that are earning fans.  This incipient, healthy trend is spreading among the nation’s top artisan bakers, resulting in delicious baked goods like killer croissants bursting with chocolate, crusty, tasty whole-grain breads and other addictive items produced by baker “Mac” McConnell and his crew. Read all about it on KQED’s Bay Area Bites.

 

Bountiful South Bay Bakeries

Divine breads, cakes, cookies pastries and more can be found at the terrific bakeries in the South Bay.

(To be published by South Bay Accent magazine.)

In our heart of hearts, scrumptious baked goods usually outrank self control, which has been good news for a slew of talented local bakers feeding our jones for all manner of treats, from naturally leavened breads, Paris-perfect pastries and gasp-inducing custom cakes to many enticing specialties. But let’s be clear: baked goods of all descriptions are in abundance in our region, reflecting our diverse population and tendency to celebrate with something sweet at the drop of a hat — or sombrero or turban or beret.

Happy Campers in Menlo Park

Modern, spacious Camper is the new hot table in downtown Menlo Park.

(To be published by South Bay Accent magazine.)

The sleeping bags, burnt weenies, messy s’mores, insect repellent and off-key versions of “Take Me Home Country Roads” are fortunately in short supply at Camper in Menlo Park. Considered one of the hottest debuts of 2018, this sleek new spot was intended as a hybrid restaurant fusing fine-dining cuisine with a casual ambience. Presumably, that’s what inspired the odd name, which left out the adjective “happy” and refers to the hoped-for response of guests. So far, definitely so good.

Girl Power in the Kitchen

Women chefs aren’t plentiful but the South Bay has some talented such females, showing that women can cook professionally just as well as men can.

(Published by South Bay Accent magazine in October, 2019.)

Women run the show in family kitchens worldwide but once cooking goes professional, meal preparation typically becomes a testosterone-fueled boys club. According to various surveys, between just 4.7 and 11 percent of U.S. chefs are female, with the lion’s share of compensation and accolades going to the dudes of food rather than the women quietly toiling in their chef’s whites.  However, the San Francisco Bay Area has long swum against the tide when it comes to star chefs of the female gender. Consider highly respected women like Alice Waters, Traci Des Jardins, Nancy Oakes, Dominique Crenn and others whose skill and tenacity have elevated their operations and reputations to soar above those of other chefs of both genders.

Heroic Dining in Saratoga

Trucker portions of wonderful food have made Hero Ranch Kitchen the new must-visit spot in Saratoga. This $200 “Ranch Platter” offers enough protein to feed a football team.

(To be published by South Bay Accent magazine.)

Ancient Roman philosopher Pliny the Elder called it right regarding experience being the best teacher. Close to 2,000 years later, South Bay restaurant entrepreneur Angelo Heropoulos is the embodiment of this concept, as seen in his new smash hit in Saratoga, Hero Ranch Kitchen. His earlier dining endeavors include launching small chains (Opa!), steak houses (Willard Hicks), Mexican cuisine (Tac-oh!) and breakfast/burgers (Mo’s) but his latest creation in the former Sent Sovi digs on the tony town’s main drag soars above them all.

Good Grains

(Published by South Bay Accent magazine in July, 2019.)

They were once worshipped by the Egyptians, considered sacred by the Aztecs, found in King Tut’s tomb and were mentioned in the Old Testament.  First cultivated about 10,000 years ago, grains played a key role in turning prehistoric communities from hunter gatherers into farmers, helping usher in the creation of settlements and spurring population growth.  Much more recently, grains have become a potent food trend, with case shipments of whole-grain products to U.S. outlets jumping by double digits.

A Culinary Melting Pot

A sexy, swanky Southeast Asian hot spot in Menlo Park, Black Pepper gets brisk business.

(Published by South Bay Accent magazine in June, 2019.)

“Fusion cuisine” is taken to a higher plane in the case of Malaysia. This Southeast Asian peninsula with Singapore on its southern foot reflects the country’s multi-ethnic population and history as a migratory crossroads.  Dining there today means experiencing complex, full-flavored dishes whose origins embrace Thailand, China, India, Indonesia, Singapore, Portugal, Britain and others whose citizens have wandered through over the centuries.

Unlikely Baker Attracting a Growing Fan Base

China-born, Harvard-educated attorney Tian Mayimin switched law for loaves and taught herself to make outstanding, naturally leavened breads of all descriptions. To launch her Little Sky Bakery based in Menlo Park, she learned the craft by studying cookbooks, watching YouTube videos and producing endless delicious iterations that she shared with happy friends and neighbors. Her small, popular operation now makes a wide variety of unusual breads — choices like Nutella-filled challah, blueberry levain with walnuts and a lovely-textured, tangy country bread covered in sunflower seeds — from a 100-year-old starter that has reportedly traveled through France, Alaska, Taiwan and now resides in Menlo Park.  Read all about it on KQED’s Bay Area Bites.

Meet Gail Hayden, the godmother of California farmers markets

Hayden has been at the forefront of the farmers market revolution in California for 40 years.

(Published by South Bay Accent magazine in May, 2019)

Farmers markets have been supplying towns and villages with fresh produce for eons, with these lively bazaars feeding citizens worldwide as well as serving as social institutions in the community. Thomas Jefferson reportedly bought his meat, eggs and vegetables in the early 1800s at a Georgetown farmers market and billions of less-renowned individuals have historically relied on such operations. But unlike in Europe and Asia, farmers markets in America dwindled away as industrialization rose, farms got fewer and larger and bureaucracies interceded.

Gail Hayden helped change that.

French Laundry South in Palo Alto

Soft, delectable ricotta dumplings that look like artwork are among the standouts at Protégé.

(Published by South Bay Accent magazine in April, 2019.)

Damning a serious restaurant as “too expensive” is as common as breadsticks at Olive Garden — whose prices seem to be what such self-appointed critics somehow expect for cutting-edge cuisine. However, savvier diners understand that meals at such exalted food temples with their precious ingredients and squads of culinary school grads aren’t about full tummies but rather delivering a unique experience, which doesn’t come cheap.  The South Bay has recently acquired one of these rarified dining spots, modeled on Napa Valley’s three-star French Laundry, no less.

Hola to Gourmet Tacos!

This classic Mexican street food is being transformed by creative chefs into an unlimited range of delicious offerings.

(Published by South Bay Accent magazine in March, 2019.)

Food trends can be fleeting; think raw food, cupcakes, molecular gastronomy and that rusty fondue set way in the back of your grandmother’s cupboard. But some trends have such broad appeal that they stick around, gather momentum and move into the mainstream. Upscale tacos are now in that favored spot, with this traditional Mexican street food having morphed into an anything-goes movement in which all sorts of delicious items are wrapped up — usually in a soft, heated corn tortilla but not necessarily — and snarfed down by a delighted public.

Asa- Hot Newcomer in Los Altos

Restaurant Asa combines irresistible American-Spanish-Italian cuisine and friendly service in downtown Los Altos. Sidewalk seating is another plus.

(Published by South Bay Accent magazine in December, 2018.)

Sleepy Los Altos with its affluent citizenry and cute-as-a-button downtown has long beckoned restaurateurs but the surprising failure rate over the years seems out of line considering the potential.  Fortunately for South Bay diners, this didn’t deter Andrew Welch, whose modern reinvention of his venerable The Basin in nearby Saratoga has been triumphant on tree-studded State Street. Opened in 2017, Asa, named for his baby son, is perennially packed, firmly occupying the happy role of the hottest restaurant in Los Altos.

Talking to Cooking Star David Kinch

Mild-mannered cooking deity David Kinch is a modest, immodestly gifted chef who has brought fame to the South Bay.

(Published by South Bay Accent magazine in December of 2018.)

In an era when chefs are often tattooed, self-promoting celebrities, with social media trumpeting their latest foul-mouthed exploits, the irrefutable king of the kitchen in the South Bay — and increasingly, beyond — is cerebral, low-key David Kinch, who’d rather be surfing than attending to a throng of groupies. He planted himself in the South Bay in the mid-’90s when, he admits, the region was a culinary backwater compared to the buzzy eating scene to the north. What drew him to this area was that “I found a place that I could afford,” he says, after coming up empty in pricey San Francisco, where he had excelled as the hired executive chef at various prestigious restaurants.

Santorini in Downtown Palo Alto

With its cheerful antique blue door and outdoor tables, new Taverna is a Greek hot spot in Palo Alto.

(Published by South Bay Accent magazine on October, 2018.)

If only the city fathers would allow tables to be set up all the way down Palo Alto’s Emerson Street, newcomer Taverna would easily fill them all.  Visiting this boisterous munchkin of a restaurant downtown is like taking a quick trip to the Greek islands due to the blue-and-white decor, wooden chairs and festive atmosphere, which has turned Taverna into the “it” dining spot of the moment.  Its piddling size means that the limited seating inside and at outdoor tables that hug the white walls of its corner location are hard to nab without planning ahead.